While helping Mike Adolph with his enormous project of building ‘From Nordegg With Love’ I had gotten a good look at the Massif adjacent to it. I was constantly drawn to this wall, and now conditions for an attempt were just right. Andrew and I were excited to try a ground up attempt.
The First Route Established on “Frejya” (The Norse Goddess of Love)
Our goal was to create a route that could be travelled by many teams. With bolts and batteries in our bag, we made our way to the base of the wall. We began climbing at a buttress that offered what looked like moderate travel.
Pitch one offered moderately good rock, as I bolted and climbed I remember thinking that this was pretty good, cleaner than Solar Panel. The first station was easy to gain and we were off on an adventure. Andrew bolted pitch two with moderate difficulty and established the next anchor. I joined him with the haul pack and we were off on pitch three in a jiffy. The original pitch three climbed easy terrain out left of the anchor, later we established a more direct line up the compact grey stone above the anchor.
Pitch one offered moderately good rock, as I bolted and climbed I remember thinking that this was pretty good, cleaner than Solar Panel.
Half Way up
Pitch four was a bit more challenging and Andrew led forty metres of traversing, then technical climbing. I enjoyed the sunshine and recall tying off his belay frequently to eat snacks. Pitch 4 is often climbed as two separate pitches with an intermediate belay stance at a ledge; which was installed later.
Pitch five took us easily to a comfortable belay stance on lower angle rock in the middle of the wall. We had a few bolts left and I bolted half of pitch six before lowering back to the station and beginning our descent. This had been a great day and we were past the halfway point on the wall.
Jon Waterman on Pitch 6