Issue 5

Tales of Vertical Trails

The Peoples Route (Voltswagen)

We returned the next day with Nate Johnson, and began bolting an easier line up the prow. This was a memorable moment. I was adamant that we push through one pitch of poor rock to reach the higher quality rock above.

Issue 5

The Peoples Route (Voltswagen)

We returned the next day with Nate Johnson, and began bolting an easier line up the prow. This was a memorable moment. I was adamant that we push through one pitch of poor rock to reach the higher quality rock above. Andrew was not so sure, but it was his lead.

Nate Johnson on Voltzwagen

Nathaniel Johnson climbing “Voltzwagen“.

Friendships Forged over a hammer drill

We had a serious argument and our first “real blowout”…while he bolted pitch one on lead. Nate went and hid for an hour, returned and joined the rope team as we headed up the wall.

As it turned out, Andrew and I had an amazing conversation about our personality differences. I recall there being very productive relational outcomes from our conflict resolution. It was a meaningful moment for me. I am thankful that Andrew leaned into that conversation, and our friendship grew deeper through it. I took the drill for the next pitch and walked up 5.6 bolting and enjoying the great rock. The next three pitches were easy climbing on good rock. The route was accessible and fun. Day 7

I am thankful that Andrew leaned into that conversation, and our friendship grew deeper through it.

A new Route, and new partnerships

The next day Nate and Andrew started up Voltswagen with trundling in mind. We called Nate “The Trundler” for a reason. He was in his happy place while seconding and cleaning…for hours. The leader would sit at the belay and take a nap while Nate cleaned and cleaned. Thanks Nate! Toby von Butler and I headed up AA to give it a clean and to meet the others at the ledge before its final pitch. We had a few bolts left and had visions of a harder alternate finish to AA.

Eventually, we all met on the big ledge and I started out on a lead to the left. It was harder than it looked and the most difficult part was weaving around a tenuous, coffee table sized, block mid way up the route. I carefully tucked my rope behind the block and continued upward to a location where I could develop an anchor. Everyone joined us at the station and the last climber sent the block for a ride with a tiny tug. It was an intrepid combination of terrifying and exciting. Day 8

Tobi Von Butler

Toby Von Butler

More Tales of Vertical Trails:

Know When To Fold ‘Em

Know When To Fold ‘Em

I had this somewhat unrealistic vision of a line up the most dominant fold on the east face of Mount Elliott, and I had only one day off work in July to complete it. Why not give it a shot? The stars aligned and Phil was available, so we packed our bags and prepared...

read more
Ultimate Nordegg Thing

Ultimate Nordegg Thing

During my early years of development, I had added two multi pitch routes to the Yambraham area. I knew we could get a lot of climbing on the way up the southwest and have six short rappels to exit off the eastern Yambraham side. The day promised to be hot and we had a...

read more
Bloody Coleslaw

Bloody Coleslaw

The sight of him was unexpected. As our day wrapped up, I had an itch to bolt a line that had been on my mind for quite some time. I invited Per to join and we all headed up the route called After, to the big tree ledge. I knew that this route would be a high quality...

read more

We’d love to answer questions or plan your custom guided mountain adventure! 

Services