Getting Started with Ice Climbing – A Beginner’s Guide

Getting started with this extreme sport can be intimidating — without the right gear and technique, climbers can risk serious injury. With this beginner’s guide to ice climbing, you’ll have everything you need to feel confident taking on one of Alberta’s fantastic ice climbs in Nordegg, Banff or Jasper.

Getting Started with Ice Climbing – A Beginner’s Guide

For the curious adventurer, ice climbing is a thrilling way to challenge yourself with something new and take in beautiful views in the mountains. Getting started with this extreme sport can be intimidating — without the right gear and technique, climbers can risk serious injury. With this beginner’s guide to ice climbing, you’ll have everything you need to feel confident taking on one of Alberta’s fantastic ice climbs in Nordegg, Banff or Jasper.

First, Gather Your Gear.

rental ice climbing boots, helmets, crampons, ice climbing tools, & inreach safety communication

Before heading out for your ice climb, it’s essential to have the right gear. Basic items include mountaineering boots, crampons, and a set of ice tools (axes), and a harness — but there are also additional safety tools like a helmet, rope, ice screws and quickdraws that will be required. Do some research before investing in any ice climbing equipment; for starters, read up on what type of crampons you need or which ice tool fit your hands and feel right for your body type. And don’t forget a couple pairs of gloves to keep your hands warm, and a down jacket for the rest of you!

If you need to rent ice climbing equipment, we have partnered with Trailhead Climbing + Fitness in Red Deer to manage our rental fleet. If you book a tour with us, we will supply your equipment for the adventure! 

Tim Taylor Teaching guests to Ice Climb

Next, Learn About Ice Climbing Safety Practices.

Making sure that you practice safety measures while ice climbing is of utmost importance. It’s important to always be aware of your surroundings and plan ahead before attempting a climb. Make sure all your gear is in working order, that you have plenty of time for the activity, and that there are no extreme weather conditions like high winds or thawing ice.

Check with www.avalanche.ca for avalanche hazard. Also, complete the proper training before attempting a more technical route; this includes learning how to use specialized ice equipment for making v-threads, how to lead climb (it’s different from outdoor rock climbing), and protecting yourself from cold-related injuries and illnesses, avalanche safety protocols, etc.

Understand the Basics of Ice Climbing.

Before climbing any route, it is important to understand the basics of ice technique. It is slower and more methodical than rock climbing which can be dynamic and at the edge of your abilities. You want to keep your weight on feet placed equal heights, with your heels down. Try not to swing outside your body to the left or right, it is too strenuous. Keep the ice tools placed to the centre of your body, one over the other. Keep an “A” frame stance. Take small steps and you will do fine!

Choose the Best Routes for Beginners.

When selecting a route to climb, it is important to choose the right difficulty level. For beginners, routes that have a flat staging area as well as low angle “stairs” or “ledges” are good choices. It is also helpful to choose routes that do not have major overhangs or dangerous overhead avalanche hazard. Routes like this require more experience and technique in order to successfully climb them and should generally be left for more experienced climbers.

What’s Next?

There is a lot to learn when you are getting started ice climbing and a certified ACMG guide is best equipped to teach you and keep you safe. We are happy to help you learn to ice climb in our beautiful David Thompson Corridor, Banff, or Jasper. If you would like to learn from a certified guide, have a look at our ice climbing tours. Ice Canyon Adventure is a fantastic first step in your ice climbing career!

You may also find these interesting:

Ultimate Nordegg Thing

Ultimate Nordegg Thing

During my early years of development, I had added two multi pitch routes to the Yambraham area. I knew we could get a lot of climbing on the way up the southwest and have six short rappels to exit off the eastern Yambraham side. The day promised to be hot and we had a...

read more
Bloody Coleslaw

Bloody Coleslaw

The sight of him was unexpected. As our day wrapped up, I had an itch to bolt a line that had been on my mind for quite some time. I invited Per to join and we all headed up the route called After, to the big tree ledge. I knew that this route would be a high quality...

read more
Whirlpool & Lookout Slabs

Whirlpool & Lookout Slabs

Spring of 2022 brought new energy and I was excited to develop. Unfinished Business was definitely on my mind. I convinced Phil Bietz to head west and give it a cleaning pass with me. Unfortunately, the weather was much poorer than forecast at Freyja Wall, so we had...

read more
(Un)finished Business I

(Un)finished Business I

In the Spring of 2021, Liz Taylor and I enjoyed a number of days bolting a route which became my nemesis (Unfinished Business). We bolted anchors, cleaned, scrubbed and rappelled the ten pitches of fun, but challenging climbing.As the valley warmed up and I moved into...

read more