Issue 19

Tales of Vertical Trails

(Un)finished Business – Finished!

After wrapping up the work on Happy People Crag, Liz and I decided it was time to get back on Unfinished Business. I was feeling strong, and I had found an opportunity to make a few minor changes to Unfinished Business on a recent cleaning pass.

Issue 19

(Un)finished Business – Finished!

Everything other than the weather was lining up. Poor weather can hold you back, or you can just go try and see what happens. As parents who had a rare day in the mountains without our four younglings, it was an easy decision. We woke at 0400 and went climbing. At the base of the route the rock was still wet, but I had a hunch the cruxes would dry out by the time we got to them.

Pitch one and two went as expected and we were at the first crux in short order. The rock was a bit moist, but we were able to punch through the pitch three crux and continue on. Smooth sailing put us at the base of my nemesis. Pitch six is hard sport climbing which feels sustained at the grade and then eases up to finish, with a bit of trad gear required for protection. The pitch went well for me, I hit the crux sequence and got to the last third of the route feeling the kind of relief which only accompanies climbing a pitch you thought might never go for you.

I had forgotten the two cams I had planned to bring with Liz, but it made no difference. I clipped the chains and thought, this route might actually go today, I sure hope the weather holds long enough. Pitch seven is a long sustained gear corner with a smattering of bolts. It is physical and demanding. When I reached the station at the top of pitch seven I was elated. My nemesis had fallen and we were going to complete the route today!

I let out a whoop of joy and Liz joined me at the anchor. Pitch eight and up are fun pitches, with the last pitch feeling a bit adventurous, but compared to the lower section they are relatively straightforward. We reached the top of the Freyja wall with satisfaction and gratitude. The weather had held and Unfinished Business was finally completed. Another pathway opened!

Happy People Crag
Happy People Crag

More Tales of Vertical Trails:

Happy People Crag

Happy People Crag

In the Nordegg area we almost always have to compromise on one of these qualities, so it's pretty special when a crag boasts all of them. Happy People Crag does just that. We ran into this crag a few years back and noted it. In 2024, Liz Taylor and I had a bit of...

read more
Rockies Ringlock & Filthy With Minerals

Rockies Ringlock & Filthy With Minerals

Route development days almost always fall in between another day or two in the mountains for me.They are a natural outflowing of my passion to share these mountains with other travellers and unlock their secret pathways. On route development days things can have a...

read more
No Lights On Fridays

No Lights On Fridays

This was the beginning of No Lights On Fridays, which turned out to be a very fun adventure. The first two pitches are long and moderate with a few bolts for protection along the way. We added bolted stations as we went and fixed this fun mixed modern route. Of note,...

read more

We’d love to answer questions or plan your custom guided mountain adventure! 

Services